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LIBRARY OF^CONGRESS. 



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UNITED "STATES OF AMERICA. 



I 



COOKERY 



WITH A CHAFING DISH 



THOMAS J. MURREY 

FORMERLY PROFESSIONAL CATERER OF THE CONTINENTAL HOTEL, 

PHILADELl'HIA ; ASTOR HOUSE, NEW YORK, AND 

OTHER LEADING HOTELS 

Author of "Salads and Sauces," "Valuable Cooking 
ReceipUi," Etc. 




^S^^_U^^ I 



^ 



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NEW YORK 

FREDERICK A. STOKES COMPANY 
MDCCCXCI 






Copyright, 1891, by 
FREDERICK A. STOKES COMPANY 



TO 

MY FRIEND 
EDWARD P. BARKER 

THIS UNPRETENTIOUS BUT USEFUL LITTLE WORK IS 

MOST RESPECTFULLY DEDICATED 

BY THE 

AUTHOR. 



CONTENTS. 



Oysters, 








PAGE 

7 


Deviled Oysters, . 








7 


Oyster Broth, 








8 


Quick Vegetable Soup 








. 8 


Clam Broth, 








8 


Clams Epicurean, . 








. 8 


Mussels, 








■ 9 


Steamed Soft Clams, 








. lO 


Scallops, 








. II 


Scallop Stew, 








. II 


Curry of Scallops, 








. II 


Curry of Shrimp, 








. 12 


Curry of Clams, . 








• 13 


Fish Curries, 








. 13 


Brook Trout, 








. 13 


Shad Roe, 








. 14 


Hamburg Herring, 
Crab Cakes, . 








• 15 
. 16 


Curry of Crabs, . 








. 16 


Soft Shell Crabs, 








. i6 



CONTENTS. 



Soft Shell Crabs Deviled, 

Lobster Deviled, . 

Lobster Pompodoro, 

Lobster Patties, . 

Lobster Cutlets, . 

Lobster Paprika, . 

Curry of Lobster, 

Rice for Curry, . 

Lobster a la Newburo, 

Shrimp Patties, 

Shrimps in Butter, 

Codfish Tongues, . 

Frogs Legs, . 

Frog Leg Patties, 

Curry of Salmon, 

Eels, 

Stewed Eels, 

Curried Eels, 

Curry of Eels, 

Turtle Steak, 

Turtle Steak Deviled, 

Turtle Steak a la Henry Guy 

ton, . 
Curry of Prawns, 
Terrapin, 
Snails, . 
Snails on Toast, 
Poached Eggs, 



Carle- 



CONTENTS. 






iii 


PAGE 


Eggs with Cheese, . . . .30 


Eggs with Asparagus Tops, 




30 


Eggs with Brown Butter, . 




30 


Eggs with Chives, 






30 


Eggs a la Brisbane, . 






31 


Boiled Eggs, 






31 


Eggs with Curry, 






31 


Eggs with Garlic Oil, 






31 


Eggs with Kidneys, 






3^ 


Kidneys with Bacon, . 






32 


Kidneys and Potato, . 






32 


Kidneys with Mushrooms, 






32 


Curried Veal Chops, . 






33 


Veal Tomato Sauce, . 






33 


Curry of Sweetbreads, 






33 


Calf's Liver with Bacon, 






34 


" " " Gravy, 






• 34 


Roast Beef for Breakfast 


or ] 


LUNCl 


i- 


eon. 






34 


Steak Rechauffe, 






• 34 


Tripe, .... 






. 35 


Curried Tripe, 






• 35 


Curried Tripe and Onions, 






• 35 


Chops and Cutlets, 






. 36 


Pig's Feet, 






36 


Potatoes Lyonnaise, . 






. 36 


Potatoes k l'Ete, 






36 


Potato Dice, 






. 37 



IV 



CONTENTS. 



Mushrooms, 


37 


Puff-Balls, 


Z1 


Green Peas, 


37 


Canned Peas, .... 


38 


Chicken Gallosch, 


38 


Beef Gallosch, .... 


• 38 


Pork Tenderloin, 


39 


The Mysteries of Welsh Rabbits, 


39 



INTRODUCTORY. 



Chafing dish cookery is the latest fad 
among the amateur and professional gourmets 
of Gotham. 

Chafing dish clubs have not only been 
formed in the family circle but many of the 
leading clubs of New York have taken up the 
subject with the cheerful prospect that in a 
few years from now, to be an Amercian wik 
be synonymous with possessing a knowledge 
of the art of cookery although it has been the 
reverse in the past. 

The sound common sense displayed in this 
fad shows that society is not the vapid thing 
our humorous journals would have us believe 
it to be. Society to-day is advancing so 
rapidly towards the practical, that not to know 
a great deal about cookery and dainty dining 
is to announce one's educational deficiencies 
and lack of social standing. 

As chafing dish cookery is practised at ta- 
ble, it is not only a gustatory treat, but an 



VI INTRODUCTORY. 

intellectual entertainment as well. The pal- 
ate-ravishing aromas which arise, keenly 
sharpen the most jaded appetite, and the prepa- 
ration of the viands loosens the tongue of the 
most bashful, ending in useful and instructive 
discussion. 

The Author. 



THE CHAFING DISH. 



Oysters.— Put into a chafing dish a heaping 
table-spoonful of table butter, sprinkle over it 
a pinch of flour; when the butter begins to 
melt stir it rapidly with a wooden spoon, sea- 
son with a salts^DOonful of salt and a dash of 
cayenne, add a gill of oyster liquor, stir and 
simmer a few seconds then add eighteen oys- 
ters. When the gills begin to curl up they 
will be cooked enough; serve plain or on 
toast. 

Oysters No. 2.— Put into a chafing dish 
a tea-spoonful of butter ; let it become quite 
hot. Drain and dry in a napkin ten oysters, 
dredge them in a little flour, shake off the 
loose flour, then cook them in the butter until 
they are a delicate brown on both sides : sea- 
son with salt and pepper. 

Deviled Oysters Mix together a tea- 
spoonful of curry powder, a saltspoonful of 
dry mustard, a saltspoonful each of salt and 
white pepper and the yolk of one raw egg; 



8 OYSTER BROTH. 

work to a paste with a table-spoonful of oil, 
spread this over six large or twelve small oys- 
ters. Put into a chafing dish two table-spoon- 
fuls of olive oil ; when hot add the oysters and 
cook well done. 

Oyster Broth.— Chop up two dozen medium 
sized oysters, put it into a chafing dish with 
three half pints of oyster liquor or water, sea- 
son with salt, pepper, and a walnut of butter ; 
serve in small cups. 

Quick Vegetable Soup.— Put into a chaf- 
ing dish three pints of water, when it boils 
add two table-spoonfuls of canned mace- 
doine, a table-spoonful of maggi bouillon, salt 
and pepper to taste and serve. Dried juli- 
enne which comes in paper packages may be 
used instead of the macedoine but requires 
ten minutes cooking. Peas, etc. may also be 
used. 

Clam Broth.— Chop up a dozen little neck 
clams, put them into a chafing dish with 
a pint and a half of clam broth or hot water, 
a walnut of butter, a dash of cayenne, and a 
single clove. Simmer f '-e minutes and serve 
with toasted bread dice. Some like the broth 
thickened with a little cracker dust. 

Clams Epicurean.— Put into the chafing 
dish a tea-spoonful of butter, a dash of 



MUSSELS. 9 

cayenne, and a dozen small clams; simmer 
five minutes, add a table-spoonful of sherry, a 
tea-spoonful of Epicurean sauce and serve on 
toasted crackers. 

Mussels.— Boil tviro dozen mussels in their 
shells twenty minutes : when cool remove them 
from the shells and put them in the chafing 
dish with a scant table-spoonful of butter, a 
pinch of curry powder, a gill of claret and a 
little salt. Dissolve half a tea-spoonful of 
browned flour in a gill of water, stir into the 
dish, simmer until the sauce thickens and serve. 

Mussels Ifo. 2.— Boil the mussels as in 
the foregoing recipe. Put into the chafing 
dish a table-spoonful of butter, when hot add 
a minced onion and fry it brown. Add a pint 
of dark beef gravy or hot water thickened 
with browned flour and colored with kitchen 
bouquet or kitchen caramel ; stir into the 
sauce a tea-spoonful of paprika, add two dozen 
boiled Mussels : when thoroughly warmed 
through, serve. 

Mussels No. 3.— Proceed as in the fore- 
going recipe except that after the onion is 
cooked add a tea-spoonful of curry powder 
instead of paprika. 

Mussels ITo. 4.— Put into the channg dish 
two table-spoonfuls of table butter, stir it rap- 



10 STEAMED SOFT CLAMS. 

idly as it melts and add two heaping table- 
spoonfuls of pompodoro or tomato paste ; 
mix together thoroughly, add a pint of hot 
water or better still beef broth, salt and cay- 
enne to taste ; in this sauce warm up two 
dozen mussels. 

Steamed Soft Clams.— Wash a dozen soft 
or paper shell clams thoroughly so as to 
free them from all sand and grit ; put into a 
chafing dish a scant table-spoonful of butter, 
put in the clams, shells and all, pile them up 
in the dish evenly, cover well ; light the chaf- 
ing dish lamp and let them cook in their own 
juice at least fifteen minutes. 

Have ready a hot vegetable dish half filled 
with hot melted butter, remove the shells and 
the black skin covering the necks, take hold 
of the latter, dip the body of each clam into 
the hot butter and eat them while hot with a 
slice of Boston brown bread. Oysters and 
Little Neck Clams may be thus treated. 

Soft Clams No. 2.— Remove the shells 
from a dozen soft or paper shell clams, trim 
off two-thirds of the tough neck. Cut three 
thin slices of bacon about four inches long, 
into dice ; put these into the chafing dish and 
fry them crisp. Add the soft clams and cook 
them well done in the bacon fat. 



SCALLOPS. 1 1 

Scallops.— Scald two dozen scallops, drain 
and dry them in a napkin, then fry them in 
the chafing dish with three table-spoonfuls of 
butter. 

Scallop Stew.— Boil two dozen large scal- 
lops thirty minutes in water seasoned with 
salt, three whole cloves and a bit of mace. 
Take four table-spoonfuls of table butter, 
divide it into balls, dredge these with flour ; 
put one-third of the number into the chafing 
dish and whisk them rapidly, add a gill of the 
scallop water and as it thickens add one at 
a time the remainder of the butter balls ; 
when it becomes too thick add a little 
more of the scallop water using a pint of it 
altogether. When the ingredients are all 
used, add salt and cayenne to taste ; warm up 
the scallops in this and just before serving 
squeeze over the dish the juice of half a 
lemon. 

Scallop Stew.— Parboil the scallops fifteen 
minutes, put them in the chafing dish with 
nearly a pint of boiled milk, salt, pepper and 
a walnut of butter ; simmer ten minutes. 

Curry of Scallops.— Make a curry sauce by 
putting into the chafing dish the heaping table- 
spoonful of olive oil, butter or beef drippings ; 
in this fry a minced onion brown, add a tea- 



12 CURRY OF SHRIMP. 

spoonful of curry powder, let it cook a 
moment and add a pint of consomme or veal 
broth with salt to taste. Thicken this slightly 
with a little flour dissolved in cold water, 
simmer till smooth, add a tea-spoonful of 
chutney if convenient, and in this sauce warm 
up a pint of boiled scallops. 

Curry of Shrimp.— Put into a chafing dish 
a table-spoonful of olive oil or butter, a tea- 
spoonful of chopped onion and fry a delicate 
brown; add a tea-spoonful of curry powder. 
Allow the powder to cook a moment, then add 
a pint of beef broth ; simmer ten minutes^ 
and add a tea-spoonful of rice flour dissolved 
in cold water. Let boil until it thickens 
slightly, then strain into another dish. Open 
a can of shrimps, rinse them off with cold 
water, add them to the curry sauce, warm up 
the dish, then pour over it three tablespoon- 
fuls of fresh orange juice, and serve with 
boiled rice. 

Shrimp Gurry No. 2.— Fry a minced onion 
with a table-spoonful of beef drippings ; when 
brown add a heaping table-spoonful of curry 
powder, a tea-spoonful of rice flour, and a 
heaping saltspoonful of salt ; stir to prevent 
burning and when the ingredients are in 
danger of burning add a pint of hot v/ater 



CURRY OF CLAMS. 1$ 

or broth. Cook until the sauce thickens 
slightly, strain and add a square of sugar, a 
heaping table-spoonful of either chutney, 
apple or cranberry sauce. Put into the sauce 
a can of shrimps, let the whole warm through 
thoroughly. Arrange on a platter a border of 
boiled rice, put the curried shrimp in the 
centre, squeeze over the shrimp the juice of 
a lime and over the rice sprinkle the juice of 
an orange. 

Curry of Clams.— Both the little neck and 
the paper shell clams are very good served 
as a chating dish curry, the body part of the 
soft clam should only be used, as the re- 
mainder is somewhat tough. The Little 
Necks, if cooked too much will be tough. 
Serve them with a plain curry sauce, made as 
the sauce for curry of scallops. 

Fish Curries.— Cold fish of any kind may 
be advantageously served in the chafing dish 
the next day in the form of a curry. All that 
is necessary is to warm up the fish in the 
sauce ; care must be exercised however not to 
break or separate the fish into too fine pieces. 
Canned salmon, etc., are all excellent and 
quite convenient for chafing dish cookery 
either plain or as a curry. 

Brook Trout.— Small brook trout may be 



14 SHAD ROE A LA CHARLES W. BROOKE. 

sauteed in a chafing dish at table or they may 
be steamed by filling a hot water dish with hot 
water, then placing over it a sieve or steamer. 
The rising steam will cook the fish in a very 
few minutes. A little butter may be melted in 
a flat dish used as a cover. 

Shad Roe a la Charles W. Brooke.— Scald 
a pair of shad roe, when cool remove the thin 
membrane. Put the roe into a small saucepan, 
cover with white wine, season with half a tea- 
spoonful of salt, one clove, and a very small 
piece of mace. Cover the dish and simmer 
half an hour. 

Wash a pint of scallops in cold water, drain, 
put them into a saucepan and cover with hot 
water ; season with i of a tea-spoonful of salt, 
an eighth of a bay leaf, four whole allspice and 
two cloves. Cover the dish and boil half an 
hour. 

Put into a small saucepan a heaping table- 
spoonful of butter; as it melts whisk it and add 
a heaping table-spoonful of flour, and a gill of 
the w^ater in which the scallops were boiled. 
Whisk rapidly and add another large spoonful 
of butter, another gill of the scallop water, a 
tea-spoonful of garlic juice, and i of a tea-spoon- 
ful of salt. Stir rapidly until quite smooth 
and of a velvety appearance, and incorporate 



HAMBURG HERRING. 1 5 

in it anotlier spoonful of butter, using tliree 
in all. 

Allow the sauce to cool a little, then whisk 
into it the beaten yolks of three eggs. 

Drain off the water from the shad roe and 
the scallops. 

Put the roe into a chafing dish, arrange the 
scallops over them neatly. Now cover the 
scallops with a thin layer of freshly grated 
horse-radish, using half a pint. Over this pour 
the sauce. Light the burner and when the 
horse-radish is thoroughly heated, serve. 

Hamburg Herring.— We are indebted to a 
distinguished German gourmet for a most tooth- 
some Lenten dainty. It is a fat herring which 
was put into a smoke house almost alive. 
When thoroughly smoked it is packed in tins 
while warm, and sealed. No salt is used in 
the curing of the dainty; they must therefore 
be used shortly after the tin is opened. 

They taste like fresh herring — one of the 
sweetest of fish — with the addition of that 
peculiar appetizing flavor so characteristic of 
the products of the smoke house. 

As a relish they are superior in flavor to kip- 
pered or any other style or kind of prepared 
fish. They are imported from Hamburg, Ger- 
many. 



1 6 CRAB CAKES. 

Like nearly every other kind of cured fish, 
this new tidbit requires but warming through 
to be fully appreciated. 

Remove the skin carefully without breaking 
the flesh, warm it up with a little butter in a 
chafing dish. 

Crab Cakes.— The meat from the hard shell 
crabs, after boiling, may be made into little 
cakes, held together with the yolk of an tgg, 
seasoned with salt and pepper, then cooked on 
both sides in the chafing dish with a small 
amount of butter or oil. 

Curry of Crabs.— Open a can of canned crab 
meat and turn it out into a dish; examine it 
for small pieces of shell ; in their hurry the 
canners are sometimes careless and throw in 
pieces of shell with the meat. Make a curry 
sauce as for curry of scallops (which see), warm 
the crab meat in it and serve with boiled rice. 
The meat from fresh caught crabs of course is 
to be preferred, but the former is more conven- 
ient for city folks. 

Soft Shell Crabs.— Clean the crabs by re- 
moving the sand pouch, and feathery gill like 
particles found under the side points of the 
shell ; dry them in a towel, dredge with flour 
and cook them in a chafing dish until a delicate 
brown. 



SOFT SHELL CRABS DEVILED. 1 7 

Soft Shell Crabs Deviled.— Make a paste 
of a table-spoonful of curry powder, a tea-spoon- 
ful of made English mustard, a tea-spoonful of 
Epicurean sauce, half a tea-spoonful of salt and 
a liberal tea-spoonful of oil'; spread this paste 
over the soft crabs and cook them in the cha- 
fing dish at table with a liberal quantity of but- 
ter or beef drippings. Do not put them 
into the chafing dish until the fat is very 

hot. 

Lobster Deviled.— Split the tail part of a 
boiled lobster in two, remove the thread like 
intestine found in the centre, cover with the 
paste recommended for Soft Crabs Deviled and 
cook ten minutes in the chafing dish. The 
raw lobster is much better for this purpose, but 
it must be cooked well. 

Lobster Pompodcro.— Cut into neat pieces 
the tail part of two lobsters. Procure from an 
Italian grocer a can of pompodoro, which is a 
kind of imported tomato paste. Put into the 
chafing dish two heaping table-spoonfuls of 
table butter and three of the paste, whisk rap- 
idly together as they melt, then add a pint of 
broth or water, simmer until it thickens; warm 
up the lobster in this. A hundred other food 
items may be similarly treated. 

Lobster Patties.— The small patty shells 



l8 LOBSTER CUTLETS. 

may be obtained from the nearest caterer or 
baker. Warm them before usuig. 

Put into the hot v/ater dish of the chafing dish 
two thirds of a pint of hot water; over this put 
the handled dish and in it boil a pint of milk. 
Dissolve a table-spoonful of flour in a little cold 
milk, add it to the hot milk ; when thick stir 
in gradually two heaping table-spoonfuls of 
table butter. Let it become quite thick by 
cooking. Cut into small pieces the tail part 
of two boiled lobsters, season well with salt 
and pepper and over it squeeze a little lemon 
juice; add the lobster to the sauce, reduce 
the heat and serve by filling the heated shells 
with the mixture. 

Lobster Cutlets.— Use live lobsters for this 
purpose. See to it that they are lively, then 
kill them by cleaving the heads in two; re- 
move the tail part, cut each tail in two and 
cook the meat thoroughly with beef dripping 
or butter ; season with salt and cayenne. 

Lobster Paprika. — Fry in the chafing dish 
minced onion brown, with a table-spoonful of 
beef dripping or olive oil, add a pint of good 
strong beef broth or consomme, a tea-spoonful 
of the Hungarian mild red pepper called 
Paprika. Dissolve a tea-spoonful of flour in a 
gill of cold water, add it also with half a tea- 



CURRY OF LOBSTER. IQ 

spoonful of salt, simmer until the sauce 
thickens a little, then add boiled lobster meat 
cut up, or in cutlet form ; simmer five minutes 
longer and serve. A tea-spoonful of pompo- 
doro will improve this sauce. 

Curry of Lobster. — A delicious curry may 
be made from lobster as follows : — Put into 
chafing dish a table-spoonful of butter. When 
it foams add a heaping table-spoonful of 
minced onion. Let the onion brown well, 
then add a heaping tea-spoonful of curry pow- 
der. Allow this to cook from three to five 
minutes or until it becomes almost black. Add 
a pint of rice water, or soup stock if preferred; 
season with half a tea-spoonful of salt, simmer 
five minutes and add a pint more of the rice 
water ; simmer until reduced nearly one-half, 
then warm up the lobster in the sauce and 
serve with boiled rice. There must be suffi- 
cient sauce to allow the meat to almost float 
about in it. The rice water referred to is water 
in which rice was boiled. It is scientifically 
of more nutritive value than the rice itself. 

Rice for Curry.— The essential point to be 
gained is that after boiling, each grain of rice 
must be distinct and unbroken, yet tender and 
to every appearance fairly ready to burst yet re- 
mains intact. To accomplish this a small 



20 LOBSTER A LA NEWBURG. 

quanliiy of rice must be cooked in a large 
volume of water. An ordinary lialf pint cupful 
of rice should be boiled in at least a gallon of 
water. It will surprise the uninitiated when 
they compare the bulk of the rice before and 
after cooking. The rice should be first well 
washed in several waters ; reject all husks 
and imperfect grains; put the rice into cold 
water slightly salted and boil about twenty- 
five minutes. Old rice requires a little longer 
cooking. The grains should occasionally be 
tested, and v»^hen a slight pressure will crush 
them they are done. If boiled until the 
grains burst the rice is spoiled for serving 
with curry. If boiled in a small volume of 
water the rice is also rendered useless as the 
grains will stick together. After boiling, the 
rice should be placed over the range where it 
will throw oHf the moisture absorbed in the 
boiling. 

Lobster a la Newburg. — Lobster a la New- 
burg is now a popular dish on our restaurant 
bills of fare. 

A recent writer on gastronomic matters, in 
speaking of the origin of the dish said: " It 
ted bv a resident of Newburs: on the 



was mven 



fc> 



Hudson, who named it after his native town." 
Were it not for the fact that a nun^ber of 



LOBSTER A LA NEWBURG. 21 

the old habitues of Dehiionico's are still alive 
to prove the falsity of this statement, the fu- 
ture epicurean historian might be led to make 
the same error as past writers have made in 
their attempt to trace the origin of many of 
the popular dishes of to-day. 

Lobster a la Newburg was invented by Ben 
Wenberg. " Ben " as he was called was in 
every sense of the word a true gastronome. 
Mr. Wenberg probably did more to popular- 
ize the chafing dish than any one of the pa- 
trons of Delmonico's. In those good old 
days Wenberg would gather about him a half 
a dozen congenial spirits, and cook for them 
at table the stewed lobster which honestly 
deserves to be named after him. Old Charles 
Delmonico once put a la Wenberg on the bill 
of fare in honor of its inventor but the mod- 
esty of the epicure objected so earnestly that 
to please him the first half of the name Vv'as 
reversed and the dish became Newburg in- 
stead of Wenberg. It is made as follovv's : 

Put into a chafing dish three ounces of 
butter, stir it as it creams ; add a gill of water 
containing a teaspoonful of flour, season with 
salt and cayenne ; pour in a pint of boiled 
milk, stir and simmer till smooth. Beat up 
the yolks of three raw eggs, let the boiled 



22 LA NEWBURG. 

milk, etc. cool a little by reducing the heat, 
then add the egg, half a gill of sherry ; work all 
together and in it warm up the meat from 
the boiled lobsters. 

Almost every cook has a different way of 
making sauce ; the most popular one is the 
cream sauce usually served with Terrapin. 
A friend of Mr. Wenberg's told me he did not 
use eggs in his. 

Here is another formula. 

La Newburg. — Divide two medium sized 
lobsters in halves. Remove the coral and 
creamy green fat and put one side. Put into 
a chafing dish two ounces of table butter. 
When it creams whisk into it a gill of Madeira 
or sherry. Simmer until reduced one-half. 
Beat together the yolks of three eggs and half 
a pint of rich cream, season with a little salt 
and cayenne pepper. Divide three ounces of 
table butter into little balls, dredge these with 
flour and one by one add to the sauce, whisk- 
ing thoroughly as each butter ball is added. 
Reduce to a paste the coral and the tom-alley 
and stir into the sauce. Simmer until the 
sauce becomes of a creamy consistency, then 
add the lobster, mix and serve. 

Shrimp Patties.— This is a delicious lunch- 
eon dish and may be prepared at table by the 



SHRIMPS IN BUTTER. 23 

lady, as the pattie shells may be obtained 
from the nearest caterer or baker. Put into 
the chafing dish a pint of hot milk, add to it a 
table-spoonful of flour previously dissolved in 
a little cold milk, simmer until thick and stir 
into it gradually two ounces of butter and half 
a tea-spoonful of salt. Open a can of New 
Orleans shrimp, take them out of the can and 
the linen bag in which they come and rinse in 
cold water ; cut them in two and send to table 
with heated patty shells ; warm up the shrimp 
in the sauce in the chafing dish, fill the patty 
shells and serve. 

Shrimps in Butter.— Put into the chafing 
dish two table-spoonfuls of butter, toss the 
shrimp about in it, add the juice of half a 
lime, a dash of cayenne, a gill of water ; cook 
three minutes and serve. 

Codfish Tongues.— Scald the codfish tongues 
a moment, drain and cut them each into four 
pieces, cook them six minutes in the chafing 
dish with two table-spoonfuls of butter, add 
the juice of half a lemon, a sprig of parsley 
chopped up and a tea-spoonful of mushroom 
catsup. 

Codfish Tongues I^o. 2.— Boil three codfish 
tongues in water slightly salted thirty minutes 
and send them to table for the chafing dish. 



24 CODFISH TONGUES NO. 2. 

Put into the hot water dish half a pint of hot 
water, over this place the chafing dish proper. 
Bruise a clove of garlic, put it in the upper 
dish with a heaping table-spoonful of butter, 
whisk it with a wooden spoon, add a table- 
spoonful of flour and a pint of milk ; stir con- 
stantly and whisk into it the beaten yolks of 
two eggs ; season with salt and pepper, warm 
up the codfish tongues in the sauce, before 
serving, add the juice of a lemon. Care must 
be exercised not to allow the eggs to curdle. 

Frogs Legs.— Boil four pairs of frogs legs in 
milk forty minutes and send to table for the 
chafing dish. They may afterwards be pre- 
pared for the guests by warming them up in 
anyone of the sauces heretofore recommended. 

Frog Leg Patties.— Boil the legs until the 
meat falls from the bone ; remove the bones 
and send the meat to table with small patty 
shells previously warmed. Prepare a sauce as 
for lobster patties, warm the meat up in it and 
serve. 

Curry of Salmon.— Cold boiled salmon 
may be served as a curry in a chafing dish 
and a salmon steak cooked in a curry sauce is 
very good eating, but there is no better way 
of serving canned salmon than as a curry. 
The only point is to be sure to buy the best 



CURRY OF SALMON. 25 

known brand of canned salmon. Fry a 
aiinced onion brown in the chafing dish with 
an overflowing table-spoonful of olive oil, add 
two tea-spoonfuls of curry powder, let cook a 
moment and add a pint of hot water, a table- 
spoonful of flour dissolved in cold water, a 
table-spoonful of tomato catsup or chutney, 
and a little salt, stir, simmer until the sauce 
thickens, then add the contents of a one 
pound can of salmon to the sauce ; let it warm 
through before serving. 

Eels.— Cut into three inch pieces two me- 
dium sized eels and parboil them half an 
hour; dry in a napkin. Cut into dice two 
medium sized slices of fat salt pork, fry the 
pork out and in the fat finish cooking the 
eels; add a little lemon juice before serv- 
ing. 

Stowed Eels.— Boil two pounds of medium 
sized salt water eels half an hour and send to 
table for the chafing dish. Put into the chaf- 
ing dish two scant tea-spoonfuls of butter, a 
minced onion, a bit of mace and half a tea- 
spoonful of salt. Allow^ the onion to cook 
until it is in danger of becoming from straw 
to a darker color, then add a pint of boiled 
milk ; add a scant tea-spoonful of flour dis- 
solved in a little cold milk, when smooth add 



26 CURRIED EELS. 

the eels, simmer five minutes longer before 
serving. 

Curried Eels.— Put into a chafing dish two 
table-spoonfuls of olive oil, before it gets too 
hot add a tea-spoonful of curry powder, now 
add a few pieces of cold eels, stir them round 
or shake the dish, to cover the pieces evenly 
with the curry; when thoroughly heated 
through, serve. 

Curry of Eels.— Put into a chafing dish a 
heaping table-spoonful of butter, a minced 
onion, a tea-spoonful of curry powder, six 
pieces of raw eel, each about an inch long, 
cover and shake the dish to prevent burning ; 
cook five minutes and add a pint of veal 
broth, or better still, fish consomme', a tea- 
spoonful of chutney or tomato sauce. Serve 
with boiled rice. 

Turtle Steak.— Florida sends us turtle steak 
in cans, it is very convenient at times to have 
a can of it in the house ; in fact, all modern 
canned goods are quite useful and convenient 
in chafing dish cookery. The prejudice against 
such prepared food is absurd. Cook the 
steak in butter, season with salt, cayenne, a 
few spoonfuls of good sherry or port, and 
serve on toast. 

Turtle Steak Deviled.— Add to half a gill 



TURTLE STEAK DEVILED. 2) 

of orange juice a tea-spoonful of com powder 
and salt-spoonful of mustard, spread it over 
a turtle steak and cook the steak in a chafing 
dish five minutes on each side. 

Turtle Steak a la Henry Guy Carleton.— 
Melt two ounces of butter in a chafing dish, 
add a table-spoonful of mushroom catsup, two 
table-spoonfuls of currant jelly, a gill of port 
wine, a dash of cayenne and a little salt. In 
this simmer the steak till tender ; finally add 
the juice of half a lime and serve. 

Curry of Prawns.— Put into a chafing dish a 
heaping table-spoonful of butter, when hot add 
a chopped spring onion or a young leek, cook a 
few moments and add a heaping tea-spoonful 
of curry powder, stir to prevent burning, allow 
it to cook a moment and add half a pint of 
hot water or beef stock, one small sour apple 
peeled and cut into dice, a square of sugar 
and a tea-spoonful of epicurean sauce ; cover 
and simmer until the apple is cooked, then add 
another half pint of beef broth, a quart of 
boiled prawns add to the sauce, heat them 
through, season with a small quantity of salt 
and a table-spoonful of tomato catsup, pour 
out the curry on to a hot platter, surround it 
with a border of boiled rice, squeeze over the 
curry the juice of half a lemon and serve. 



28 TERRAPIN. 

Terrapin.— Prepared terrapin is always to 
be had in New York and for this reason it is 
often seen served out of season. Thus pre- 
pared it simply requires warming up in the 
chafing dish, with a little sherry added. 

Terrapin No. 2.— A great deal of care 
should be exercised in selecting the live ter- 
rapin. This is the first and at the same time 
the most important step in the preparation of 
the dish. The best should be fresh caught 
and fresh and healthy looking, a pen terrapin 
spends most of its time seeking freedom. It 
worries under restraint and will prove poor 
eating, the liver will taste so rank that one 
can hardly eat it. The legs of the penned 
terrapin will show ebrasions on the under side 
where the poor thing injured itself seeking an 
avenue of escape. 

The right kind selected, plunge it into boil- 
ing water and boil fifteen minutes ; when cool 
remove the under shell, the skin from the 
legs, the gall bag and entrails and throw this 
refuse away. Put the remainder into a sauce- 
pan, season it with salt and a dash of cayenne ; 
add just water enough to prevent burning and 
simmer an hour. Now add a gill of good 
sherry and put it away as it is better the next 
dav. Put into the chafins: dish a scant table- 



SNAILS. 29 

spoonful of table butter, and a salt-spoonful of 
flour, rub this smooth and add the terrapin 
with two table-spoonfuls of sherry, cook three 
minutes and serve. 

Snails.— Rinse a quart of snails in cold 
water slightly salted, drain and boil them half 
an hour in barely sufficient water to cover 
them ; when cool pick them out of the shells, 
cut off the nose and the tip end of the tails, 
put them back in the shells, then put them 
into the chafing dish, add half a pint of strong 
beef gravy or broth, a table-spoonful each of 
epicurean sauce and claret, salt to taste, 
simmer until the sauce is nearly evaporated. 

Snails on Toast.— Boil the snails as in the 
foregoing recipe, pick them out of the shells 
and chop them fine, season slightly with salt, 
white pepper and nutmeg, warm this hash in 
the chafing dish with a little butter, when 
ready serve on thin buttered toast. 

Poached Eggs.— In parts of New England 
they call this dish " poached eggs." Beat up 
six eggs, add a salt-spoonful of salt and a pint 
of milk. Put over the hot water dish the 
chafing dish proper; put into the latter a 
table-spoonful of butter, when melted stir in 
the egg mixture and keep stirring it with a 
fork until it sets. Serve on toast. 



30 POACHED EGGS. 

Poached Eggs.— Put into the hot water dish 
of the chafing dish, six poached egg rings, 
surround them with hot water, carefully break 
an egg into each ring and when firm place on 
buttered toast. 

Eggs with -Cheese.— Break into a well but- 
tered chafing dish six eggs, stir them back 
and forth with a fork as for scrambled eggs ; 
when set, sprinkle a few drops of vinegar over 
the eggs, salt and pepper to taste and finally 
a liberal layer of grated cheese. 

Eggs with Asparagus Tops.— Proceed as in 
the foregoing recipe except to omit the cheese 
and substitute asparagus points from the aspar- 
agus left from the preceding dinner. When 
the asparagus points are hot, serve. 

Eggs with Brown Butter.— Allow three 
heaping table-spoonfuls of butter to cook in 
the chafing dish until almost black. Drop 
into it carefully four eggs and as they cook, 
throw the butter over them with a spoon. 
When well done place on thin toast, add a 
few drops of tarragon vinegar and serve. 

Eggs with Chives.— Break six eggs into 
the chafing dish proper, which should be 
placed over the hot water dish, add to them a 
tea-spoonful of chopped chives, a dash of 
paprika, a little salt, and serve. 



EGGS WITH CHIVES. 3 1 

Eggs a la Brisbane.— Mr. Arthur Brisbane, 
the distinguished journalist, prepares scram- 
bled eggs in a chafing dish and serves with 
them a rich truffled sauce called sauce Per- 
igord. It is a delightful late supper dish ; 
those who can afford it are referred to Mr. 
Murrey's more pretentious works for the recipe 
of the sauce. 

Boiled Eggs.— The chafing dish is just the 
thing for boiling eggs at table in hot 
weather. 

Eggs with Curry.— Sprinkle over six scram- 
bled eggs while the}' are cooking half a tea- 
spoonful of dry curry powder and serve on toast. 

Eggs with Garlic Oil.— Divide a bulb of 
garlic into cloves, remove the outside husks, 
cut each clove into thin strips lengthwise, put 
them into half a pint bottle and fill the bottle 
with olive oil ; in a week the oil will take on 
the flavor of the garlic and use this oil for 
frying eggs. While cooking keep the cover 
on as the oil spatters. 

Eggs with Kidneys.— Scald three mutton 
kidneys, remove the thin skin over them and 
cut them into thin slices. Put into the chaf- 
ing dish a table-spoonful of beef drippings, 
when hot add a chopped Bermuda onion ; 
when slightly browned add the kidneys, salt 



32 EGGS WITH KIDNEYS. 

and white pepper to taste, cook the kidneys 
three minutes, add four raw eggs and when 
the latter becomes firm, serve. 

Kidneys with Bacon.— Put into the chafing 
dish two table-spoonfuls of chopped bacon. 
When well cooked add three scalded, skinned 
and sliced kidneys, cook four minutes, season 
with a little white pepper, and serve. 

Kidneys and Potatoes.— Wash, peel and 
cut into small dice two medium sized raw 
potatoes. Scald and skin three mutton kid- 
neys, quarter them, chop up sufficient celery 
to make a tea-spoonful. Put into a chafing 
dish a scant table-spoonful of butter ; when 
quite hot, put in the potatoes, stir to prevent 
sticking to the dish, add the celerv, then the 
kidneys and half a pint of good rich brown 
gravy. Season with salt and pepper and a 
table-spoonful of mushroom catsup. Cover 
and simmer six minutes and serve. 

Kidneys with Mushrooms.— Scald, skin 
and quarter six lambs^ kidneys, cut into thin 
slices the contents of half a can of French 
mushrooms. Put into the chafing dish a 
heaping table-spoonful of butter, a minced 
onion and a very small piece of a bay leaf ; 
when the onion is quite brown add a tea- 
spoonful of browned flour ; stir into the dish 



CURRIED VEAL CHOPS. 33 

a pint of beef broth and a scant tea-spoonful 
of kitchen bouquet ; season with half a tea- 
spoonful of salt and a salt-spoonful of white 
pepper, add the kidneys and the mushrooms, 
stir to prevent burning and cook six minutes. 

Curried Veal Chops.— Mix together a heap- 
ing table-spoonful of curry powder, two salt- 
spoonfuls of salt, a tea-spoonful of " made " 
mustard, a dash of cayenne, a tea-spoonful of 
epicurean sauce, and olive oil enough to make 
a paste ; spread a little of this on both sides 
of the chops, then dip in beaten egg, roll in 
bread crumbs and fry in the chafing dish. 

Veal Tomato Sauce.— Cut into neat slices 
a small quantity of cold roast veal. Put into 
the chafing dish two table-spoonfuls of butter, 
three table-spoonfuls of pompodoro — Italian 
tomato paste — and a pint of veal broth, salt 
and cayenne to taste. When smooth add the 
meat and serve when quite hot. 

Curry of Sweetbreads.— Select two fine 
sweetbreads, scald them and remove from 
them all sinews, etc. Put them into water 
slightly salted, cover and parboil half an hour; 
drain, and keep in cold water till wanted. 
Prepare a plain curry sauce in the chafing dish ; 
slice the sweetbreads, cook them in the sauce 
ten minutes and serve. 



34 CALF S LIVER WITH BACON. 

Calfs Liver with Bacon.— Cut three small 
thin slices of bacon into inch pieces and cook 
them well done in a chafing dish, add to the 
dish one and one half more calf's liver sliced 
quite thin. Cook until the liver begins to curl 
up on the sides. 

Calf's Liver with Gravy.— Prepare in the 
chafing dish a brown gravy, similar to, (in- 
structions for Kidneys with Mushrooms) and 
in this sauce simmer three thin slices of calf's 
liver. 

Roast Beef for Breakfast or Luncheon.— 
Put into the chafing dish a table-spoonful of 
beef drippings ; when hot, add a medium sized 
red onion, chopped fine, two whole cloves, 
four pepper corns, broken, two allspice, the 
smallest bit of bay leaf, a sprig each of green 
parsley and celery. When the onion is quite 
brown, add a pint and a half of hot water, or 
better still beef broth. Simmer six minutes, 
add salt and cayenne. Dissolve a heaping 
table-spoonful of flour in a gill of cold water ; 
rub it smooth, add a few spoonfuls of the hot 
sauce to the flour, then pour it into the 
dish, stir well and add half a tea-spoonful of 
kitchen boquet ; in this warm up cold roast 
beef. 

Steak Rechauffe.— Divide into small bnlls 



TRIPE. 35 

four ounces of butter, dredge these with flour. 
Put one fourth of them into a chafing dish 
and over the hot water dish ; as it melts whisk 
it rapidly and add a pint of hot water, whisk 
rapidly and gradually add one fourth more of 
the butter balls, repeat this process until the 
butter is all used. Let the sauce cool a little, 
season with sauce and white pepper. Bruise 
all over a piece of cold broiled sirloin steak 
the juice of three cloves of garlic ; now return 
to the sauce, and add to it while off the flame, 
the yolks of two raw eggs, if too hot the eggs 
will separate ; in this sauce warm up the steak. 

•pj^ipe.— Select the double tripe if possible ; 
boil a pound of it an hour and a half. When 
wanted warm it up in a sauce made as per rec- 
ipe for cold steak. 

Curried Tripe.— Rinse off a pound of fresh 
tripe in scalding hot water, drain it, cut it into 
conveniently sized pieces, and boil them, in 
water slightly salted, an hour and a half, then 
add the tripe to a plain curry sauce made m 
the chafing dish and serve with boiled rice. 

Curried Tripe and Onions.— Cut into slices 
three Bermuda or white onions. Fry in the 
chafing dish a delicate brown, with three 
tal>le-spoonfuls of olive oil ; strew over ihe 
onion a tea-spoonful of currj-powder, add half 



36 CHOPS AND CUTLETS. 

a pound of cold boiled tripe, cover the dish, 
and shake the pan to prevent burning ; when 
the onion is cooked, serve. 

Chops and Cutlets.— It is really surprising 
how quickly and how very perfect chops, steaks 
and cutlets of all kinds can be cooked in a 
chafing dish at table. The dish must invaria- 
bly be kept covered to prevent the hot fat 
from jumping out. I have cooked chops per- 
fectly in from four to seven minutes, the varia- 
tion in time depending upon the thickness of 
the meat. 

Pig's Feet. — It is more convenient and more 
economical to buy pig's feet already boiled, 
split them in twoandsaule in the chafing dish. 
Care must be exercised to use sufficient fat 
to prevent sticking to the dish. 

Potatoes Lyonnaiso.— Cut two red onions 
into quarters, then into strips and fry them in 
a chafing dish with either butter or beef drip- 
pings. Cut up into small slices five medium 
sized new potatoes — boiled — and cook them 
well with the onion. 

Potatoes a I'Ete.— Peel and slice two raw 
new potatoes. Put into the chafing dish a 
heaping table-spoonful of beef dripping. When 
quite hot lay in the slices of potato ; when a 
dehcate brown on one side turn each piece. 



POTATO DICE. 37 

Potato Dice.—Cut raw potatoes into dice 
and cook them well in the chafing dish. Time 
for three potatoes ten minutes, stir to prevent 
burning. 

Mushrooms. — Remove all grit and peel a 
dozen freshly gathered mushrooms, remove 
the stems ; melt a tea-spoonful of butter in the 
chafing dish and before it gets too hot lift the 
dish off and put it on a plate. Cover the bot- 
tom of the dish with mushrooms ; on top of 
each mushroom put a bit of butter the size of 
a marble ; season each with a little salt and 
pepper. Return the dish to the flame, and 
cook three minutes. 

Puff-balls.— At certain seasons puff-balls 
are found in profusion in the fields and pas- 
tures. What surprises me is that so few peo- 
ple know that they are a most delightful, 
nutritious and wholesome fungi. They should 
be gathered when the inside is of a creamy 
white ; when touched with a streak of yellow, 
or are spongy they are too old. Peel them, 
cut them into thin slices and fry them in the 
chafing dish plain. They may be also stewed 
in the chafing dish. 

Green Peas.— When green peas become dry 
and old they require considerable cooking 
but when fresh and a beautiful green they re- 



38 CANNED PEAS. 

quire but little cooking and this little is best 
accomplished in a chafing dish. After remov- 
ing them from the pods, put them in the chaf- 
ing dish. To a quart of peas add water 
enough to cover the bottom of the pan, say a 
little less than a pint; the steam arising from 
the water cooks the peas and the heat from 
the alcohol flame is so intense that the peas 
are cooked so quickly they retain their delicate 
green color. Season with salt, white pepper, 
and be liberal with the best butter. 

Canned Peas.— Open the can, rinse off the 
peas w'ith cold water, then simply warm them in 
the chafmg dish ; longer cooking spoils them. 

Chicken Gallosch. — Cut into dice two me- 
dium sized raw potatoes. Put into the chafmg 
dish a table-spoonful of olive oil ; when hot 
add the potato, stir to prevent burning, and 
after five minutes cooking add, half a tea- 
spoonful of paprika, half a pint of hot v.ater, 
a clove of garlic, half a pound of cold roast 
chicken cut into dice, half a salt-spoonful of 
salt; ^tir occasionally, cover while cooking 
and when the potatoes are done serve. 

Beef Gallosch. — Proceed as in the foregoing 
recipe, using half an onion instead of the clove 
of garlic, and flank steak cut small instead of 
chicken ; but it should be raw meat. 



PORK TENDERLOIN. 39 

Pork Tenderloin.— Fry an onion slightly 
in the chafing dish, with a table-spoonful of 
butter ; cut into dice a small pork tender- 
loin, add it to the dish and cook it thoroughly ; 
now add half a pint of gravy or broth, salt and 
cayenne to taste and two warm, boiled new 
potatoes cut into dice, cover and serve with a 
cucumber salad for breakfast or luncheon. 

The Mysteries of Welsh Babbits.— Every- 
body who has tasted a rightly composed Welsh 
rabbit likes it, but not every one dares to re- 
peat the indulgence because of the difiiculty 
some people have of digesting it. 

I have discovered a simple method of mak- 
ing the dish digestible, and first made my dis- 
covery known through the culinary column of 
the New York Herald. 

The secret is to add paprika to the cheese. 

It may surprise the lover of Welsh rabbits 
to learn that by the addition of this simple 
condiment its indigestibility is overcome. 

The formula for making the digestible Welsh 
rabbit is as follows : — 

For a party of four grate a pound of what is 
known as " full cream American cheese ; " put 
into the chafing dish a " walnut " of butter ; as 
it melts stir it with a wooden spoon to grease 
the bottom of the dish, then add the grated 



40 VIRTUES OF PAPRIKA. 

cheese. As the cheese melts, stir it, and add 
a table-spoonful of old American or imported 
ale. It will now begin to stick to the dish ; to 
prevent this, stir and gradually add spoonfuls 
of ale until the mixture is smooth and velvety 
in appearance. Stir into the cheese a table- 
spoonful of paprika ; mix well, and when of a 
creamy consistency put spoonfuls of it on hot, 
dry toast. 

Hot plates are absolutely necessary. 

The amount of ale required varies according 
to the quality of the cheese, but about one and 
a half gills of ale is all that is required ; should 
this amount thin out the cheese too much, the 
mixture must be rapidly stirred to evaporate 
the unnecessary moisture. 




CHAFING DISHES 

The Chafing Dishes made by the Gorham 
Mfg. Co. are of superior quality. They are 
constructed of hard 7netal^ silver soldered at 
every joint^ perfectly finished^ and very heavily 
silver plated. A variety of styles and sizes are 
tnade, with various pieces^ to be used separately ^ 
or combined. 

GORHAM MFG CO.. SILVERSMITHS, 
BROADWAY AND iqth ST.. NEW 
YORK. MAKERS OF SOLID SILVER 
WARES AND THE CELEBRATED 
GORHAM PLATE. 




° OU 524 



